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Meet me at ICF this year, July 10-13! https://www.climbersfestival.org/
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In this episode, legendary climber and developer Alan Watts explores:
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How he inadvertently hazed me on my first Smith climb
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The joy and fallout of being the father of sport climbing in the U.S.
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The stunning Watts route that caused a chain reaction in climbing
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The route J.B. Tribout actually stole from him (it wasn't Just Do It)
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The wild story of how Just Do It actually came to be bolted
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What are the "rules" of climbing anyway?
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Putting Smith Rock on the map, and what makes it so rad
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Being labeled a cheater by his heroes and peers
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Balancing performance, health, and joy as an older climber
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How to have more fun as a climber right now
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
- PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
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- Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
- 00:25 Legendary Guest: Alan Watts
- 00:51 Memorable Climbing Experiences
- 01:30 Alan Watts' Impact on Climbing
- 02:02 The Evolution of Sport Climbing
- 02:57 Smith Rock: The Birthplace of Sport Climbing
- 04:10 Personal Stories and Reflections
- 05:12 Upcoming Events and Announcements
- 06:05 Conversation with Alan Watts Begins
- 07:03 Recollections of Climbing at Smith Rock
- 14:10 Challenges and Struggles in Climbing
- 19:53 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics and Techniques
- 33:19 The Iconic Route: Just Do It
- 38:49 The Turning Point in US Climbing
- 39:27 The Controversial Route Theft
- 42:19 Debating the Rules of Climbing
- 43:49 The Evolution of Climbing Ethics
- 47:06 Fueling Climbing Gains
- 51:43 The Joy of Climbing and Community
- 59:50 Modern Climbing and Gym Culture
- 01:02:45 Reflections on Climbing Legacy
- 01:08:48 Concluding Thoughts and Future of Climbing
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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow
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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!