Weightlifting in climbing. It’s one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we’re diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.
In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.
We’re talking to:
- Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.
- Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.
- Jemma Powell – A Lattice coach, mother of two, and former GB climber. Jemma specialises in coaching pregnant and postpartum athletes, helping them rebuild strength safely and sustainably. She also works with weekend warriors and performance climbers, with a strong focus on injury prevention, movement quality, and mindset.
- Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.
You’ll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:
- Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort.
- Will Bosi shares why he’s not lifting right now, but might again soon.
- Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.
In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting, moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.
We’ll cover:
- Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)
- How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performance
What female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength training - Portable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-time
The compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use them - Why “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbing
Whether you’re curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level.
🎧 Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dig deeper into hypertrophy, burnout, identity shifts, and the long
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