Just fifteen or twenty years ago, bakeries in Denmark seemed to be dying. They couldn't find staff. Nobody, it was said, wanted to get up in the middle of the night and make bread.
The few bakeries that were left tended to have dirty windows and sour service and offer stale, dusty pastries.
Most Danes made their breakfast bolle at home or got frozen buns from the supermarket or gas station. I remember a text about gas station buns at one of my early Danish language textbooks.
But the trend has turned, and bakers and bakeries are now some of the hottest businesses around. People will wait in line outside the Juno bakery in Copenhagen, or Bakeria in Helsingør.
These are destination bakeries.
And this is not just a big city phenomenon. There are craft bakeries all over Denmark. This year's Best Bakery contest has 80 nominees from Aalborg to Rønde to Jyderup to Karrebæksminde.
Perhaps it is a coincidence, but the trend turned when baking became a rather macho enterprise in Denmark. Claus Meyer was the pioneer, with his Meyers Bageri.
Baking became a way for Danish men, who are generally gentle fellows, to show their creativity and skill.
This is a culture that respects craft and handiwork, whether it is furniture making or beer brewing or silversmithing, or producing a beautiful bun.
An acquaintance of mine recently ran a baking course for teenagers, and all of the sign-ups were boys.
Many of these boys and men go on to create fancy craft bakeries, where a complex bun or piece of cake can cost an absurd amount.
These bakeries reflect the confidence and prosperity of Denmark at this time in history.
Thirty or forty years ago, this was not a country where people had a lot of disposable income. Now it is.
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The How to Live in Denmark podcast is the longest-running English-language podcast in Denmark, and one of the leading English-language resources on Danish culture and everyday life.
The podcast host is Kay Xander Mellish, an American author, speaker, and cultural commentator who has lived in Copenhagen, Denmark, for more than 25 years.
Through her books, keynote speeches, workshops, and consulting, Kay helps international professionals, global companies, universities, and newcomers understand Danish culture, Danish working culture, cross-cultural communication, and the practical realities of living in Denmark.
She has advised organizations across Europe and North America on working effectively with Danish colleagues and building successful international teams.
Kay is the author of several books including How to Live in Denmark, How to Work in Denmark, and The Danish Year. Her work combines firsthand experience, careful observation, and a dry sense of humor to explain not just what Danes do, but why they do it.
An international keynote speaker, Kay delivers presentations to audiences in Denmark, across Europe, and in the United States on Danish culture, Danish working culture, and cross-cultural communication. Kay's favorite U2 album is "Achtung Baby."
She lives in Copenhagen.