logo
episode-header-image
Jun 18
23m 38s

When Fashion Lost Its Voice

THE BUSINESS OF FASHION
About this episode

Earlier this month, cities across the US saw the most significant wave of demonstrations since the 2020 protests following George Floyd's murder. These latest protests have been sparked by immigration raids conducted by the Trump administration, and while some of those enforcement actions have targeted garment workers, the fashion industry has mostly stayed silent. 

Executive editor Brian Baskin, senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young, and retail editor Cat Chen explore the reasons behind the industry's cautious stance, whether fashion can find a new way to engage with politics, and practical steps brands can take to support vulnerable workers.



Key Insights: 


  • During the Black Lives Matter movement, fashion brands were quick to voice support. Today, in the face of immigration raids affecting garment workers, many brands are noticeably quiet as companies now worry that taking a stance on divisive political issues could trigger backlash. “There's a lot of anxiety and discomfort and frustration behind the scenes, but there is also this other piece of the pie, which is fear of retaliation from the Trump administration,” says Chen. Despite the fear of retribution, Butler-Young also notes how the lack of response is being interpreted outside of the industry: “I think that people see the industry as acting cowardly as an industry that does rely on immigrant labor, legal and otherwise.” 


  • Fashion isn’t providing much concrete support behind the scenes, either. “I think another huge issue is that people are feeling really helpless in the sector. There aren't any resources,” says Chen. “We're not seeing trade organisations emerge and come up with guidelines for what employers can do in case of a raid.” She adds, “You have these executives who are operating very blindly.”


  • Brands that lean too heavily on public declarations of diversity and inclusion without backing them up are losing credibility with values-driven shoppers. As Butler-Young explains, “The liberal consumer is just a little bit over hearing companies say something and then not do it.” Instead of splashing their values across LinkedIn or homepage banners, she notes that “some of the brands that are doing a good job by doing the work internally first and then talking about it.” 


  • The focus should also shift from performative allyship to practical, on-the-ground support—ensuring that businesses are equipped to respond meaningfully when their workers are directly impacted by policies like immigration raids. As Chen points out, “The most vulnerable people right now don't need big brands to post something on social media or grand political gestures. What they need is a solution to the problem. What they need is for their employers to be prepared.” 


Additional Resources:



Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Up next
Aug 6
How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back
Performance basketball shoes have long been embedded in fashion culture, from the iconic Air Jordans of the 1990s to the stylised sneakers worn in NBA tunnel walks. But over the last decade, interest in basketball shoes waned as sneakerheads turned to minimalist silhouettes, runn ... Show More
24m 42s
Jul 30
The Jobs Fashion and Beauty Talent Want in 2025
In the five years since the pandemic, fashion and beauty workplaces have undergone seismic change. Amid mounting economic uncertainty, geopolitical instability and the ongoing climate crisis, a workplace reckoning is underway. Employees are re-evaluating what truly matters at wor ... Show More
28m 42s
Jul 24
High Luxury, Cheap Labour: Inside Loro Piana's Sweatshop Links
The luxury industry trades on a carefully constructed marketing image, deeply linked to artful claims of exclusivity, craftsmanship, and impeccable standards. But a slew of Milanese court cases linking some of luxury’s biggest names to sweatshops on the outskirts of the fashion c ... Show More
24m 19s
Recommended Episodes
Jan 2025
Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem
Over the past year, the pristine image luxury brands have built on their links to artisanal craft, ethical manufacturing and quality has begun to crumble, buffeted by a scandal that has linked labels including Dior and Armani to sweatshops in Italy.  According to investigators in ... Show More
24m 10s
Feb 2025
Why Can’t Fashion Fix Its Labour Exploitation Problem?
The revelation this year of child labour in India’s cotton fields and modern-day slavery in Taiwanese garment factories is the latest scandal concerning worker treatment in fashion’s supply chain. New abuses keep emerging despite efforts by brands, manufacturers, activists, and g ... Show More
25m 22s
Mar 2025
Can Farfetch Be Fixed?
Once hailed as a pioneering platform for online luxury, Farfetch is now undergoing a dramatic operational overhaul. The South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang acquired the luxury marketplace in 2023, rescuing it from near-bankruptcy. Since then, Coupang has implemented sweeping co ... Show More
27m 33s
Jan 2025
The Luxury Crisis, Explained
In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on The Rapid Response podcast. “This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry since the Great Recession of 2008,” says Amed. “The business model a ... Show More
35m 10s
Dec 2024
BoF’s Top Stories of 2024
As the year comes to a close, BoF’s executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young look back on some of their favourite articles from 2024. The stories include topics that dominated industry conversations throughout the year, as well as some that have ... Show More
27m 22s
May 23
Inside The Great Luxury Reset
Instead of his usual place in the host’s seat, BoF founder and CEO Imran Amed appears this week as a guest in an interview with Jonathan Wingfield, editor-in-chief of System Magazine, alongside Luca Solca, senior research analyst at Bernstein – as featured in the debut issue of S ... Show More
1h 8m
Sep 2024
Pourquoi les «Pingti» inquiètent les marques de luxe ?
Il a toujours existé des imitations des produits de luxe. Mais une nouvelle version de ce type de produits rencontre un succès grandissant. Ces articles, qui nous viennent de Chine, ne sont pas à proprement parler des contrefaçons. En effet, s'ils imitent parfaitement certains pr ... Show More
1m 51s
Feb 2025
Can Kering Fix Gucci?
Gucci has long been the shining star of Kering’s luxury portfolio, but the brand's recent struggles have exposed weaknesses in the conglomerate’s position. Gucci’s sales plummeted 24 percent in the fourth quarter of 2024, dragging Kering’s overall performance down by 12 percent. ... Show More
30m 57s
Sep 2021
What Defines a Luxury Product Today? | Transforming Luxury
In Episode 2 of Transforming Luxury, BoF’s new podcast presented by Klarna, we investigate what will inform the luxury product mix of the future. Indeed, the definition of a luxury good has expanded dramatically in recent years to now include a host of disruptive new categories, ... Show More
37m 51s
Dec 2024
How Independent Brands Can Thrive in a Fashion World Ruled by Giants
Background:In a slowing luxury and fashion market, it’s not just the big brands and e-commerce companies that are being impacted. Independent fashion designers around the world — from China to the US to Europe — are facing a barrage of challenges too. As more multi-brand retailer ... Show More
20m 51s