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Mar 2025
32m 53s

#113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route ...

ERIC J. HöRST
About this episode

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing.

If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode.

Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing.

So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy?

Listen in now to find out!

RUNDOWN

0:16 - Welcome statement...

0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing...

(Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12

4:00 - What is this powerful strategy?

6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route.

13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com

15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing

16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy.

18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go!

20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on.

22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold.

23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go.

24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point!

25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send! 

27:00 - What to do if you don't send?

29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing?

30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes.

Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel.

*** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***

Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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