EPISODE SYNOPSIS
Beautiful Bruton in Somerset is the destination for this week’s The Filling podcast as Anna Barnett
joins chef and restaurateur Merlin Labron-Johnson in his 15 th Century home to chat about his
illustrious career beginning with his training in classical French cuisine, to his successful return to
London and opening 3 restaurants in 5 years (including a Michelin star), and his eventual move to
Somerset where he now runs The Old Pharmacy, a French style épicerie, and Osip, a nose-to-tail
restaurant with no menu: a Michelin starred paean to the local produce.
EPISODE NOTES
13:00 – 14:30) Here Merlin talks through his chef training abroad in Switzerland, France
and Belgium confessing his love of and respect for classical French cooking techniques.
26:00 – 28:35) Seasonality and provenance are very much at the heart of Merlin’s cooking
and underscore the ethos to his restaurants. Here he details how an emotional connection to the
food you’re eating makes it taste better.
29:00 – 32:00) Merlin’s school days are recounted here with the chef confessing that he
wasn’t particularly well-behaved at school. However, this gave him the opportunity to work in the
school kitchen and from there a love of cooking was born.
41:30 – 44:30) Returning from working abroad Merlin had no real plan. So how did taking a
job to pay the bills result in a Michelin star and launching 3 London restaurants in 5 years?
51:00 – 55:00) What does a restaurant that offers no menu to its diners look like? Here
Merlin explains how dishes evolve through seed planting, cultivation, and harvesting: it’s all in the
seasonality.
58:50 – 01:02:00) Merlin passionately recounts his ongoing commitment to working for
refugee charities here cooking for over a thousand displaced people in Lesvos and Calais.
TOP QUOTES
“If I’m a little over-excited it’s because of you and that cookie.” Anna
“Cooking, for me, is about respect for tradition with an eye to innovation.” Merlin
“As a child I was only interested in getting into trouble and then I found cooking and I became
obsessed with being a chef, but not just any chef: the best chef in the world.” Merlin
“Some of the best dairy products, meat and fish I’ve ever had are produced in Somerset.” Merlin
“Limitations create the greatest identities.” Merlin
“We just say hi, thank you for coming, and this is what we’re going to cook for you.” Merlin
“I’m two moths clean of carbs and sugar; and it’s not enjoyable.” Anna
RESOURCES
www.osiprestaurant.com
www.flourishfarmstead.com
www.helprefugees.org
www.imadssyriankitchen.co.uk
www.caffesicilia.it
www.studionicholson.com
www.thefelixproject.org
ABOUT THE GUEST
Growing up in south Devon, Merlin was always surrounded by organic and sustainable farming. His
parents – a poetry writer and museum curator – always made sure there were good organic
vegetables and wholesome food on the table. However, it was a disruptive school-life that found
him assisting in the school kitchen, rather than attending classes, that really inspired Merlin to
become a chef. After training extensively in traditional French cooking techniques across Europe,
Merlin returned to London where he took the job of head chef at ‘Portland’ restaurant; 9 months
later he was awarded a Michelin star. Two more restaurants followed, ‘The Conduit’ and ‘Clipstone’,
before Merlin decided to start his own ventures in Bruton, Somerset. Now he run the French style
épicerie, ‘The Old Pharmacy’, as well as the Michelin starred ‘Opis’ a no-menu restaurant showcasing
the very best of Somerset produce.
Instagram@merlin_johnson
ABOUT THE HOST
Anna Barnett displayed an enthusiastic interest in food, cooking (and especially eating) early in life;
eagerly joining her nan in the kitchen to observe and learn the traditional baking, ingredients, and
recipe techniques that would prove to serve her in the future. After several years working in TV
production and fashion, Anna’s natural culinary passion and energy led to a series of supper clubs,
pop-up restaurants, and professional catering. Subsequently, Anna released her debut cookery book
‘Eat the Week’ in 2015 and spent several years writing ‘The Reluctant Vegetarian’ blog for The
Independent newspaper as well as contributing to Vogue. For over a year and a half Anna wrote the
food pages for Grazia magazine, and now has a column writing for The Evening Standard online
where she shares recipes and food and travel recommendations, as well as interviewing some of the
world’s most eminent chefs.
Instagram: @annabarnettcooks