Born in Honolulu in 1951, Tom Pohaku Stone made a name for himself at Pipeline in the early 1970s as a stylish goofyfooter. Around that time, he was imprisoned after a drug bust. While incarcerated, he found books and higher learning. He studied, and, after his release, got a job as a lifeguard and enrolled in college. He got his BA in Hawaiian Studies from the University of Hawaii in 1998 at the age of 46. A few years later he earned his MA for his thesis paper about the ancient Polynesian practice of riding papa holua boards—which are long, wooden sleds—down grass-covered mountains. Now a professor of Hawaiian History at University of Hawaii, Pohaku Stone’s commitment to the preservation and revival of ancient Polynesian knowledge and practices extends beyond academia and into his personal life as a surfer and shaper.
In this episode of Soundings, Pohaku Stone sits down with Jamie to talk about the early days at Pipeline, finding solace in the past, his Hawaiian heritage, sobriety, Jose Angel, finding academia, and memorable moments on the North Shore.