logo
episode-header-image
Jun 13
2h 25m

What Martin Margiela and Dries Van Noten...

Eugene Rabkin
About this episode

Apologies for the hiatus, but we are back with a bang! On this episode we speak with Patrick Scallon, Paris-based communication consultant who was the head of communications at Maison Martin Margiela from 1993 to 2008 and at Dries Van Noten from 2008 to 2023. In the fashion world Patrick is a legend, having helped shape two of the most iconic independent brands. He was awarded the Chevaliers des Arts et des Lettrés by the French ministry of Culture for his contribution to fashion in 2019.

We get into the weeds (hence the feature length of this episode!) of his years at Margiela, discussing how the brand was molded, how it communicated its values, how much creativity was spurred by the lack of resources, how Scallon had to turn down the supermodel Claudia Schiffer, Margiela's biggest market (you will never guess), and the dangers of the current Margiela fetish. Plus, we finally get the truth about whether you were supposed to cut off that infamous label from the garments (the answer may surprise you). 

We also chat about Patrick's time at Dries Van Noten, what made Dries special, how the brand grew during his tenure, the immense work of putting together Van Noten's brilliant 2014 exhibit, and some of the brand's most memorable shows.

Lastly, we speak about what it's like to work in communications, the pressures of the job, how the industry has changed over Patrick's tenure, and what the fashion press could do better.

Support the show

Up next
Jun 30
How To Build an Independent Brand in Paris with Lutz Huelle
On this episode we speak with the German fashion designer Lutz Huelle, who has built a brand with a cult following from scratch. Lutz tells us about growing up in a small German town in the '80s, his friendship with the photographer Wolfgang Tillmans, the dream world of the '90s ... Show More
1h 26m
Apr 17
What Luxury? with Robert Williams
On this episode we speak with Robert Williams, Luxury Editor at the Business of Fashion. We start with Robert's unique career journey as an American student in Paris (it wasn't like Emily's), before going on to discuss the challenges of maintaining independence in ... Show More
1h 54m
Apr 4
NEMESIS with Emily Segal
On this episode we speak with Emily Segal, the founder of the brand strategy agency Nemesis, publishing house Deluge, and the author of the novel Mercury Retrograde. Emily came to fame in the 2010s as the co-founder of the collective K-Hole, which coined the term "normcore." She ... Show More
1h 27m
Recommended Episodes
Sep 2023
Taylor Zakhar Perez on the Power of Influence
Woolmark's new ambassador Taylor Zakhar Perez is a rising Hollywood star known for his leading man roles. You might recognise him from a certain rom com that we're not mentioning here (in respect of the actors' strike), or his role in a royal drama based on a cult book (again, no ... Show More
42m 17s
Jun 2024
120. Embracing Fun: The fuel for creative sparks, with Richard Speight, Jr.
When was the last time you truly listened to someone? Not just wait for your turn to speak, but genuinely hear their story, even if you disagree? This week, on our season finale, we explore the power of listening and embracing diverse perspectives with a guest who's made a career ... Show More
1h 1m
Nov 2023
Stella Bugbee
Former Editor-in-Chief and President of New York Magazine’s The Cut and current Styles Editor of The New York Times—Stella Bugbee joins to discuss her remarkable career in the media industry, covering fashion, beauty, and culture as a journalist, editor, and creative director. Ho ... Show More
1h 5m
Nov 2024
Sandy Powell's Dressing the Part: Costume Design for Film
Today's episode is dedicated to one of the greatest visual storytellers of our time, costume designer Sandy Powell who joins us to talk about her prolific 40 year career creating movie magic. Her work is the subject of a current exhibition Sandy Powell Dressing the Part: Costume ... Show More
1h 3m
Sep 2024
The Who What Wear Podcast: Emily in Paris Costume Designer Marylin Fitoussi Breaks Down Your Favorite Season 4 Looks
Marylin Fitoussi is the costume designer of the hit Netflix series Emily in Paris. Since its first season, Marilyn's work on the show has been a crucial and beautiful piece of the show's storytelling, and in 2022, she won the Costume Designer’s Guild Award for Excellence in Conte ... Show More
37m 1s
Feb 2024
Ep421 - Shelby Ivey Christie | A Legacy of Looks: The Role of Black Fashion in Music
Shelby Ivey Christie visits Google to discuss the history of how the music industry has influenced Black fashion, how Black artists and costume designers influenced style for musical artists worldwide, and how Black fashion became and continues to be mainstream culture today. An ... Show More
59m 39s
Nov 2018
Easton Pearson - Slow Fashion in a Fast Fashion World
What was it like to pioneer ethical fashion before that was even a phrase? For 27 years, Pamela Easton and Lydia Pearson ran the iconic Australian fashion label Easton Pearson, known for its exquisite artisanal fabrics and embellishments, colourful exuberance and sense of fun.The ... Show More
39m 13s
Oct 2024
Fashion Commentary 101 with Hanan Besovic of ideservecouture
We're back with an episode that is unapologetically honest! Remember when fashion reviews weren’t just about hype? Hanan Besovic, the voice behind the popular Instagram account @ideservecouture, is bringing that era back. 'When the work is good, I love to praise fashion. But when ... Show More
57m 7s
Dec 2024
Zandra Rhodes on pattern, colour, and textiles.
Zandra Rhodes is one of the most recognisable and influential figures in fashion, as well as the founder of the Fashion and Textile Museum in London. Describing herself as both ‘chaotic’ and ‘fastidious’, she possesses a unique sense of colour and pattern. Over the years, she has ... Show More
50m 27s
Sep 2024
New York Fashion Week Edition: Lafayette 148’s Emily Smith – ‘We want to represent ourselves in our own way through our own stores’
NYC-based luxury womenswear brand Lafayette 148 has earned a loyal, influential customer base in its 28-year history — many members of which turned out for the brand’s spring 2025 collection presentation in NYC’s Chelsea neighborhood on Monday. Among recognizable attendees viewin ... Show More
26m 35s