logo
episode-header-image
Mar 2025
17m 58s

ep. 50 - creative directors in today's f...

amelie stanescu
About this episode

hello to the archivists XDXD in ep. 50 we’re talking about the creative director—how the role was born, how it got messy, and what’s next.Let’s start with karl. Lagerfeld was the OG. In 1974, he was the sole designer at chloé—before the title "creative director" even existed. But with him, something shifted. Designers stopped being just garment-makers and started building worlds. He worked on the brand’s visual identity, storytelling, image—everything.Then came Bernard Arnault. He basically Voldemorted his way into fashion—strategic, relentless, quietly building an empire. His hostile takeover of Boussac and Dior was the beginning. And then he went full power mode: Galliano. McQueen. Marc Jacobs. That era? Pure auteur energy. These designers were setting culture.Fast forward to now and it's a chess game. Creative directors barely last a full year. The pressure’s more insane than ever even if you thought it was not possible, the timelines are brutal, and everyone’s trying to stay relevant and sell bags.But maybe the future isn’t about the lone genius anymore. Maybe it’s collaborative—like Raf and Miuccia. Less ego, more ecosystem.

Let’s talk about it.

insta https://www.instagram.com/chez.amelie

youtube https://www.youtube.com/@chez.amelie

newsletter https://thefashionarchives.substack.com/

Up next
Nov 22
ep. 62 - kelly cutrone's nobodycares.com
<p><strong>kelly cutrone</strong> <em>is </em><u>reality tv</u> <em>lore</em></p><p><br></p><p>one of the few people in fashion who understood that power, communication and a little fear can shape an entire generation. </p><p>long before influencer culture she built a world where ... Show More
18m 15s
Nov 20
ep. 62 - post book launch depression
<p>GO UP AND RATE THIS PODCAST XDDDDDDD</p><p><br></p><p>i had a massive <u>emotional hangover</u> after my<em> book launch party </em>at paris fashion week ss26 and i let one hateful comment enter my veins like<strong> salt on an open wound </strong></p><p>I did a lot of work on ... Show More
14m 48s
Sep 7
ep 61 - fall fashion 2025 things I am buying
things i still want to buy in 2025fewer pieces, stronger ones is the overall approach:usable, worn hard, quietly rare; a slight avant-garde tilt. written like a confession and that starts to feel like a real plan to me.rick, finallyyyyy: the prong topi (here it is)I finally put m ... Show More
24m 54s
Recommended Episodes
Sep 2024
Lyas on the Enduring Power of Fashion Storytelling
<p>Fashion narrator Lyas is one of the most compelling and authentic fashion communicators to have arrived on the scene, and whose takes on fashion shows and editorials are incisive, honest and well-informed.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><br><p>“I think we’ve lost the mindset of thinking that ... Show More
43m 55s
Sep 5
Special Episode: The Great Fashion Reset
After a post-pandemic high, the fashion industry is facing a hard crisis. Growth has cooled, prices have surged, quality is under scrutiny and aspirational shoppers feel shut out, all while macro uncertainty dents confidence.The industry is focused on a slew of shows where new de ... Show More
42m 41s
Nov 7
Why Robert Wun Ditched the Wholesale Model for Bespoke Creations
Soon after sharing his graduate work from the London College of Fashion online, Hong Kong-born Robert Wun was approached by Joyce Boutique to buy his collection. Like many other independent designers, he found navigating the wholesale model challenging and during the pandemic he ... Show More
48m 42s
Jul 2025
Why Duran Lantink Refuses to Follow Fashion’s Rules
From a very young age, Dutch designer Duran Lantink has been fascinated by the transformative power of fashion. His journey began in his early teens, culminating in his first runway show at just 14 years old. That collection, made from repurposed Diesel jeans and his grandmother’ ... Show More
43m 32s
Oct 2024
How Zac Posen is Reenergising Gap Inc.
<p>Zac Posen burst onto the fashion scene in the early 2000s, gaining acclaim for his glamorous designs and dressing Hollywood's elite. After nearly two decades, Posen closed his label in 2019, finding himself at a crossroads that eventually led to a meeting with Richard Dickson, ... Show More
1h 3m
Aug 15
The Best of The BoF Podcast: Francesco Risso Says Fashion Should Slow Down to Find Its Magic Again
Born in Sardinia on a sailing boat to self-described “adventurous” parents, Francesco Risso grew up in an environment that fostered independence, spontaneity and a deep need to create. After formative years at Polimoda, FIT and Central Saint Martins — where he studied under the l ... Show More
1 h
Oct 2024
Tim Blanks and Imran Amed Reflect on the Spring/Summer 2025 Shows
<p>Amid economic uncertainty, a global luxury industry slowdown, and conflicts erupting around the world, designers at the Spring/Summer 2025 shows balanced restraint and expression, resulting in collections that sought deeper emotional and intellectual impact. Megabrands scaled ... Show More
1h 5m
May 2024
[EN] Fabien Baron | Creative Director & Photographer : Reinventing the Fashion Narrative
<h3>🎙️ Sponsors du mois</h3><p>🌐 <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.squarespace.com/?subchannel=orsomedia&amp;source=edlm"><strong><u>Squarespace</u></strong></a> — la plateforme no-code, boostée par l’IA, pour créer et développer votre site ... Show More
2h 16m
May 2024
Middle age and 'slowing this whole mess down', with Aaron Draplin
<p>We never really know how we’ll feel when we turn 30 or even 40. For some, it’s no big deal; for others, it can be a shock to the system. Where does the time go? And how do we keep going with work, responsibilities? How do we even stay relevant in the creative industry when so ... Show More
1h 10m
Jun 2025
S06.EP11 - Inside DixonBaxi: Building Brands That Matter with Simon Dixon
In this episode, we go inside the mind of Simon Dixon, co-founder of the global brand and design consultancy DixonBaxi. » Learn more at https://justcreative.com/podcast Known for shaping bold, human brands for some of the world’s most iconic companies, Simon shares how his team b ... Show More
44m 32s