Today: the vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava episode. Introduced in 1932, though it wouldn't be called the "Calatrava" until years later, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is perhaps the most iconic watch ever, laying the blueprint for the modern dress watch. It was also introduced at a pivotal time in the history of Patek Philippe, just after it had been acquired by the Stern family. After the acquisition, the Stern brothers hired Jean Pfister, a technical master who would lead the development of the first serially produced complications that defined so much of Patek's collection during the mid-20th century. But first came the Calatrava ref. 96, Patek's first serially-produced reference.
I called up founder Ben Clymer and client advisor Rich Fordon to discuss the Patek Calatrava. We start by asking: what even is a "Calatrava," and what isn't? Then, we jump through the history of the line, from the original reference 96 through the golden era of the refs. 570, 565, 2508, and others (depending on your definition of "Calatrava"), through the hobnail ref. 3919 and then the rebirth of the traditional Calatrava in the 1980s and '90s. We also take a look at a few of our favorite overlooked Calatrava references as well as the most expensive ones to ever sell at auction.
In the show notes below, I've tried to include a link to each reference we mention to help you follow along with our discussion. Thanks as always for listening – let us know if you liked this model-focused discussion, and if so, what model you'd like to hear us discuss next.
Show Notes
3:55: The Calatrava collection on Patek's website
5:05: A Visual Guide to Rare Patek Philippe Calatravas
5:50: Patek Philippe ref. 3919 (Hodinkee Shop)
11:54: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oaks
13:18: Steel Patek Calatrava ref. 96 with sector dial at Sotheby's
16:36: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million
17:22: The Patek Ref. 565 With Breguet Dial For Sale At Phillips
17:30: Patek ref. 570 in yellow gold (Hodinkee Shop)
18:24: White gold Patek ref. 570 (Hodinkee Shop)
21:30: Alfredo Paramico Talking Watches, featuring his three two-tone dial 570s
24:35: Patek Philippe ref. 2509
28:45: The Patek Philippe 2526, And Why It's A Watch To Pay Attention To
34:52: Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II With Ruby Indices, Limited To Ten Pieces
40:26: Patek 2577 with enamel dial at Phillips
42:28: Patek ref. 530 with black dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 1.4 million
43:05: Patek ref. 570 with two-tone dial and Breguet numerals that sold for CHF 3.3 million (most expensive Calatrava sold at auction)
47:26: Patek ref. 3796 (Hodinkee Shop)
51:10: Patek ref. 3923 for Harrod's 150th anniversary (Mr. Watchley)