Let’s say you pass a group of people dressed identically. Are they a) following a trend, b) wearing uniforms, or c) in a cult? And who’s to say the answer can’t be all of the above? This week, we’re diving fabric first into the world of American cults, communes, and alternative communities with fashion historian and archivist Sarah C. Byrd. Listen in as she and Jonathan discuss how these groups have historically expressed themselves through style—and why the definition of “cult fashion” might be more expansive than we think.

Sarah C. Byrd is a fashion historian, archivist, & educator based in New York. Her independent research focuses on the history of clothing within American “cults” and alternative communities, as well as the role of museums in fashion design education. She is also passionate about creating space to engage in learning outside of institutional programs. You can connect with Sarah via her website: sarahcbyrd.com.

Still curious after listening to this episode? Sarah has suggested a handful of resources, and places to learn and visit, for each of the communities featured in the episode. All of these resources are linked in the episode entry on jonathanvanness.com:

The Shakers:

Shaker Museum Collection (New Lebanon, NY)

Hancock Shaker Village (Hancock, MA)

Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community (Sabbathday Lake, ME)

The Oneida Community:

Oneida Community Archive Collection (Syracuse University Library)

Oneida Community Mansion House (Oneida, NY)

FLDS:

A House Full of Females: Plural Marriage and Women's Rights in Early Mormonism, 1835-1870 (Book by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich)

Keep Sweet: Pray and Obey (Netflix)

Prophet's Prey (Showtime)

The Source Family:

The Source Family (Documentary)

The Source: The Untold Story of Father Yod, YaHoWha 13, and The Source Family (Book by Isis Aquarian & Electricity Aquarian)

Heaven’s Gate:

Heaven’s Gate: The Cult of Cults (HBO)

Heaven’s Gate (Witness Docs podcast, hosted by Glynn Washington)

General:

America and the Utopian Dream (Yale University Beinecke Library)

American Messiahs: False Prophets of a Damned Nation (Book by Adam Morris)

Transcripts for each episode are available at JonathanVanNess.com.

Our executive producer is Erica Getto. Our associate producer is Zahra Crim. Our editor is Andrew Carson.

Our theme music is “Freak” by QUIÑ; for more, head to TheQuinCat.com.

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How Do Cults Fashion Themselves? with Sa...